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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.